Upgrading Fat shark Teleporter Receiver Module

With all the new modules coming out for Fat Shark Dominator FPV goggles, i was feeling a bit restricted with my measly little Fat Shark Teleporter V3 goggles. The reduced resolution i can deal with, the lack of DVR and HDMI output, that nice face pad with foam looks like it would be comfy over the rubber suction like cups, etc, but the 7 channel receiver has me a bit envious of my brothers Black Pearl 32 Channel Diversity Monitor, i can only view Fat Shark channel bands which means im not able to view other feeds if i go to events or i wanted to watch my brother fly with his Boscam transmitter.

I initially started searching out diversity monitors, or dvr monitors, any monitor where i can share the ride with friends or family who are with me when i fly, but the price to entry is still over $100 for a decent 5G8 monitor and it still doesn’t really solve my initial issue, the goggles still only have a 7 channel receiver.

Never one to settle with limited hardware I started googling up pictures of the dominator module pinouts and doing some research on those and the aftermarket ones like the LaForge module from UBAD and a few others i came across.

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LaForge from UBAD

After opening up my Teleporters i got a good idea of all the inner components, they seemes to be somewhat individual items, with the reciever especially being its own unit, almost like a fpv receiver soldered onto a breakout board. for example if you look at this bare FX758 module from banggood and compare the pinouts, its a pretty direct output to the pinouts to the module.

My theory is that the reciever is just like any other reciever, so the CS pins probably control channels, the ground and VCC are also inputs, the only real output is Video and the two audio channels, but really it just needs video output so as long as the reciever gets power to turn on and sends a video output, the goggles screens should just pull that analog video signal and feed it to the screens like any old TV or monitor, and like most manufactures who want to create a ” line” of devices from the same materials and just either software limit them or hardware limit them, in this case it was just mainly hardware limited as the lower quality screens and non removable reciever.

To save money on a “hunch” i ordered a FSV2442 32ch 5G8 Race Band Receiver Module from Amazon to test my theory out at a lower cost in case i got it wrong.

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I figured if anything was going to work it would an official Fat Shark Module, plus i should be able to use the stock buttons to change the channels and such. So i ordered it and got it taking apart the goggles.

The stock board that the receiver plugged into said DOM-RX-1.0, a good sign for my theory, and just like the reports i hear of the altitudes being hard soldered, this one was also hard soldered. I took the boards over to Surface Mount Solutions and had it desoldered (watch that third pin from the bottom its GND and it sucks in alot of heat)

IMG_3152

Desoldered

After that i went about getting the Male-Female pins soldered onto the stock boards but two mistakes, i had the female pins soldered to the wrong side of the base board (whoops!) and i also had the male pins soldered in the standard way you would usually use them, unfortunately, turns out this makes the board stick out too far away from the base board and it wont fit back into the case Apparently you have to push the plastic part of the pins to the top/bottom? of the pins and insert them through the holes from the top as seen below.

IMG_3278

First time I seen header pins soldered like this.

Its actually a interesting way to mount header pins in a lower profile, i think i may want to try this on my next flight controller install if i use headers.

I received the new receiver from amazon and checked it side by side with the stock module

Last thing is to install it and test it

It powered it up and plugged in my FX797 Camera/Transmitter combo and powered on my goggles and immediately got a picture. Great it works!

*one note i have to add, the instructions are kind of confusing, the module itself has two dip switches, switching them UP puts them on the ON position and DOWN to the OFF position. According to Fatsharks instructions, the Fat Shark channels should be on 0-0 or OFF-OFF, but according to the sticker on the module it shows both dip switches as Up-Up, which would be 1-1. this is kind of confusing as i read the White dots as the switches themselves, when i think they meant the Black bars to be the dip switch positions.

Screenshot 2016-07-19 12.26.29

**second update, i was having VTX issues with my transmitters and found this image for my transmitter that helped explain the dip switches on the VTX, i thought White was the pin but it seems black was the pin the whole time.

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16 thoughts on “Upgrading Fat shark Teleporter Receiver Module

  1. Hi, been serching about mods for fatshark teleporter and this is the best by far…thanks for sharing…
    There are a couple of questions …
    -why didn’t you plug in a external diversity receiver in the av in/out and watch all channels? I’m saying this because maybe your option is better and am wondering
    -did you check for other options on the receiver module??do you think la forge or any other could work?and adding diversity??
    – do you have pictures of the teleporter once you had finished the mod?

    Hey …maybe is too much questioning …not trying to bother you.
    Best lusk

    • Thx, I didn’t plug in an external diversity receiver because I didn’t have one, honestly I believe it was cheaper to but the rx5808pro module than a dedicated receiver at the time. I was looking at LaForge and the true D but you couldn’t get your hand on one unless your were one of the cool kids or YouTube famous like some other guys, plus I don’t mind upgrading the firmware by hand so I could always and did upgrade it to add the other features from the GitHub. Pictures should be all over my Instagram, I’ll really didn’t get much further past where I left it, I install and uninstall the module every time I use it just because I don’t want to accidently break it, plus it fits inside the fatshark case still if I remove the module

  2. Awesome article about how to modify the Fatshark Teleporter FPV goggles to accept newer modules. Thank you for sharing your knowledge- Check out quadquestions.com sometime- maybe you can help answer some other quad questions. 🙂

  3. Did you got a better range ?
    Are they diversity receiver that I could use on my TV3 ?
    Thanks again !

    • i dont recognize any real change of signal at all, it is just a receiver so any extra range would either come from a better stronger transmitter or better antennas, to save money on a hunch i didnt want to spend the $100ish it would cost to get a full laforge setup before i knew if it would accept other modules or not, so i ordered this 32 channel one from FatShark for now so that i can at least use other receivers and channels beyond the stock 7 channels.

  4. Pingback: Fatshark Teleporter Upgrades Take two – Diversity, faceplate with fan | Daewootech

  5. Hi mate nice mods. I have same like yours exactly same but i have a question bout the rx pin from the stock module and the nextwave module has 2 ground on the bottom..do I need to solder the rx pin on the second ground pin on the base? Or i can solerder all of them as it is? Like the stock..thank and advance

    • leave them as is, i didn’t do anything besides removing the direct soldered module and replace it with a receptacle pins so i can plug in any other module.

  6. Great article. You mentioned a receptacle pin. Does that mean you were able to plug the fsv2442 module without soldering it? That would be great since you could then easily swap out and upgrade to a different model later. Does this solderless pin type still let you close the Goggle case without modification?

    • Correct I made it swappable like the dominators, the only difference is when I want to swap modules at that stage I needed to open my goggles and then I could swap modules, I could close the case up with I believe no modifications to he case itself, besides making a small hole to access the pins for the dip switch on the 2442, but that’s not necessary if you don’t want to switch bands.

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